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Start datesThe former Kingdom of Lo, a high desert of eroded red cliffs, cave dwellings and whitewashed Tibetan-Buddhist villages north of the Annapurna range. The trail follows the Kali Gandaki from Kagbeni to the walled capital of Lo Manthang (3,840 m) and returns by a different route past Ghar Gompa, one of the oldest monasteries in the region. Upper Mustang is a restricted area: each trekker needs a special permit (US$500 for the first 10 days) and must travel with at least one other trekker and a licensed guide. We arrange both. The region lies in the rain shadow of the Himalaya, so it can be trekked during the summer monsoon too.
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12 days
Day 1
A scenic drive (or 25-minute flight) from Kathmandu to Pokhara (820 m). Your guide collects passports for the restricted-area permit check.
Day 2
An early flight between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna to Jomsom (2,720 m), then an easy walk up the Kali Gandaki to Kagbeni (2,810 m), the gateway to Upper Mustang.
Day 3
Permits are checked as you enter the restricted area. Follow the riverbed past Tangbe, a village of narrow alleys and apple orchards, to Chele (3,050 m).
Day 4
Climb over the Taklam La (3,624 m) and Dajori La (3,735 m) with views of Nilgiri and Tilicho, then descend to Syangboche (3,800 m).
Day 5
Cross Nyi La (4,010 m), the highest point of the trek, and descend to Ghami (3,520 m), known for one of the longest mani walls in Nepal.
Day 6
Walk beside the long Ghami mani wall and over the Tsarang La (3,870 m) to Tsarang (3,560 m), with its large monastery and old palace.
Day 7
Cross the Lo La (3,950 m) for the first view of the walled city, then descend into Lo Manthang (3,840 m).
Day 8
Visit the Jampa and Thubchen monasteries with their 15th-century murals and the royal palace, then ride or drive to the cliff caves of Chhoser in the afternoon.
Day 9
Return south by a different trail to Ghar Gompa (Lo Gekar), said to date from the 8th century, and on to Drakmar (3,810 m) below dramatic red cliffs.
Day 10
Rejoin the main trail at Ghami and walk to Ghiling (3,570 m), surrounded by barley fields.
Day 11
A jeep ride back down the Kali Gandaki valley to Jomsom. Farewell dinner with the team.
Day 12
Morning flight to Pokhara (flights are weather-dependent, so keep a spare day), then on to Kathmandu by flight or road.
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